Yet another cool and misty morning greeted us as we piled into the vans. Today, they would take us from Monchy-le-Preux to the D-Q Line to Canal du Nord – we’ve already reached the sites of the First World War’s closing months. Those events of a century ago can seem impossibly distant, but today’s battalion presentations revealed how our personal ties reach back across the generations that separate us from that time.

We began with a stop at Monchy-le-Preux, where Laura discussed the Royal Newfoundland Regiment’s involvement in the Battle of Arras. They engaged the Germans at Monchy-le-Preux on April 14, 1917 in a battle that ended with no gains for either side. However, the severely depleted Newfies managed to hold the town, which was a key position. For several hours, just ten soldiers defended it until reinforcements arrived. Laura’s family roots are in Newfoundland, and it was a special moment when she was able to leave a Canadian flag at the Monchy memorial. The caribou statue faces in the direction of the enemy lines; its antlers reached up through the rain and the newly-planted flag at its feet whipped in the wind as we left.

Memorial to the Royal Newfoundland Regiment at Monchy-le-Preux

The country roads next took us to the Dury memorial cube, which stands at the D-Q (Drocourt-Quéant) Line. Shelagh explained the breakthrough that occurred here in September 1918 during Canada’s Hundred Days. The Canadian Corps had little time  to prepare for action – in fact, final orders were only issued the night of the attack. Nonetheless, they made steady progress, capturing their objectives and German prisoners, and the Germans withdrew from the D-Q Line. Here, as at all the other memorial cubes, we took a moment to sign the visitors’ book. This is always a time to reflect: on the battles we have just learned about, on the lives lost, and on what it means for us today.

The capture of the D-Q Line was followed by the battle of Canal du Nord, which began on September 27. Brad and I both did presentations here about the 1st and 38th battalions, respectively. Like Laura, we had personal connections to these battalions, as we had each picked ones that were recruited from our hometowns. The 1st Battalion originated in Western Ontario, while the 38th had soldiers from Ottawa and the surrounding area.

Canal du Nord today. At the time of the battle in 1918 the canal was still unfinished and hadn’t been filled with water.

The Canal du Nord battle was part of the push to capture Cambrai, an important transport and supply centre for the Germans. Lieutenant-General Sir Arthur Currie’s risky strategy called for the soldiers to cross Canal du Nord at a narrow opening that exposed them to enemy fire. They were to then fan out and take objectives such as Bourlon Wood. Meanwhile, engineers had to build bridges across the canal to transport the artillery that provided essential support for the forward troops. In short, the operation required sophisticated logistical planning and excellent execution to succeed. Succeed it did, and Currie considered it the greatest Canadian victory of the war. The 1st and 38th battalions contributed to this achievement, but they paid the price. It was difficult for Brad and me to walk among their graves at Ontario and Cabaret Rouge Cemeteries. Although we are decades removed, we share a certain kinship with these fallen men. Yes, a hundred years does seem like a long time ago. But it doesn’t feel that way when we are at their gravesides, and we think about how we’ve walked the same streets, seen the same sights, and called the same place home.

Lilia Lockwood, University of Ottawa

We woke up to a less rainy, but equally as foggy, day in Arras. After we slowly trickled into breakfast, and the shock of room temperature milk and unrefrigerated eggs subsided, we tucked into our meals and freshly squeezed orange juice. As the last of us smuggled out baguettes and fruits for lunch for later today, we met in the lobby at promptly 08h30. Ready for a full day of rain, wind, and fog, we were all kitted up – a sight I’m sure looked strangle to the Frenchmen wearing just dress pants and blazers. We piled into the vans, and made our way to Hill 70. Prior to our arrival, we saw a newly erected bastille in a location once occupied by German troops. The neighboring forest still has remnants of German trench systems that were used almost a century ago. Across the street from the forest, which is being clear-cut for housing, stands a lonely memorial for the battle at Hill 70. One of two hills on either side the city of Lens, we discussed the strategic importance of the area, as well as the obstinate nature of Arthur Currie. Although the loses for the Canadians was great (roughly 10 000 men), the loss for the Germans was greater. As we were reminded, unfortunately the objective and harsh realities of the First World War was attritional warfare, and grinding down the enemy at the expense of one’s own army was an excepted consequence. By this period, 1917, we discussed the improvements made in the accuracy and technology of artillery, and how the area was another battle that adopted the bite-and-hold tactic, which the allies had been using since Passchendaele.

After paying our respects, we moved towards the Lievin Communal Extension Cemetery, where Sarah gave insight into the life of trouble-maker Charles Richardson. He seemed to be cared for by all that knew him, and a true friend. From here we visited the grave of Charles B. Tinling in the Barlin Communal Cemetery Extension. Where Nina gave a presentation describing the influential Tingling family, and about his relationship with his brother. The Communal Cemetery Extensions were unique in that the area is shared with a present-day civilian cemetery; however, remain equality as peaceful and moving as those that are individual establishments.

Lievin Communal Extension Cemetery 

We then drove out to the Australian National Memorial in Villers-Bretonneux. The walls of the monument bear the names of roughly 11 000 ‘missing’ Australians in France from the First World War. Here we discussed the events of Spring-Summer 1918, and the role played by the Canadian and Australian troops. As a 25km rupture had been created in the Allied line by the end of April, Australian troops were brought down to push back the German advance and to protect the town of Amiens. Although the Australians were ultimately successful, the casualty were relatively high. By August, the Canadians were moved into the region, and were able to move the Germans back 13.5km in the first day. Again, despite their successes, they too suffered heavy losses.

From here the day continued with sites throughout the Arras region. Although excited to see what else was in the area, some would argue that it sparked a sense of excitement for those looking to sift through a farmer’s field in search of a small fragments of shrapnel (or in Emilio’s case, and entire shell casing). Our ‘archeological’ adventure began near Rifle Wood, where were learned about the somewhat obsolete Canadian Calvary Brigade. They were able to drive the German troops into the Moreuil Wood, and eventually push back the German line. In addition, we discussed the bravery of Gordon Flowerdew of Lord Strathcona’s Horse, for which he was awarded the Victoria Cross (V.C.).

From here we visited Crucifix Corner Cemetery in Villers-Brtonneux, which was unique for the large number of French-Muslim Graves, as well as that fact that two Russians were also interred. It is also the final resting place for Australians from the April 1918 battle to prevent the German capture of the city Villers-Bretonneux, as well as Canadians from the August 1918 push to drive out the Germans from the Amiens area.

Finally, we visited Le Quesnel Memorial, which is in memory of the Canadians that fought in the 1918 Battle of the Amiens, particularly in Operation Llandovery Castle. The aforementioned operation was fought in memory of the HMHS Llandovery Castle – a Canadian hospital ship sunk by German U-Boats earlier in the war. Although this was intended to be the final stop in our tour, there was an almost unanimous vote to continue on to Amiens. In this case, we took the 44-minute drive along the narrow and winding roads to the ‘big city,’ Thankfully the traffic in the city stalled our arrival, and we were able to avoid the few minutes of torrential downpour we would have otherwise experienced. Upon arrival, we made our way to the Cathedrale Notre-Dame d’Amiens. Many lit a prayer candle upon entering the somber, dimly-lit church – possibly in remembrance of a soldier who shall never be forgotten.

– Michelle Pellicano, University of Calgary