Student Tour Blog

Written by Emma Berg

May 30th marked the third day of our journey and another day of hands-on learning. The group  started the day with a short talk by Professor Gary Sheffield about the battles of Ypres. The history lesson continued as we drove past Essex Farm Cemetery where the poem “In Flanders Fields” was penned. Just driving by felt so unreal. To think, such a powerful poem was written nearby makes the poem feel even more real.

Our first stop was to the Saint Julian memorial, otherwise known as the Brooding Soldier. The group learned about the first gas attack by the German army during the Second Battle of Ypres and the effects of chlorine gas. I felt that it was so important to position ourselves in the shoes of the soldiers. The use of large battle maps helped orientate ourselves to the land and compare where the battle was happening. 

The next stop was a super interesting (and different) type of cemetery. At Langemark Cemetery, we looked at a German cemetery which would contrast with the Entente burial sites throughout the rest of the day. This cemetery valued a dark atmosphere and somber reflection rather than the open, bright nature of the others we’d see later in the day. 

Jumping forward, the next two cemeteries got me thinking on how people’s differences were remembered though insignia on the head stones. Lijssenthoek Hospital Cemetery and Tyne Cot Cemetery collectively are the final resting place of around 32,000 soldiers who fought in Ypres. Each soldier had a name inscribed on the headstone (if known), their regiment badge, rank, and date of birth. The engraved badges called upon medieval imagery of valiant soldiers who would charge bravely into battle. I found it incredibly interesting how you could identify different religions and nationalities just from their tombstone shape.

For example, French graves were grouped together with plaques placed on crosses instead of the traditional rounded edges on commonwealth graves. If a soldier was Jewish, the cross on their grave would be replaced with a David’s Star. I found it so fascinating to walk up and down the rows, taking in where everyone was from and comparing the badges on each stone. 

The last leg of our day brought us to Canada Gate and Passchendaele New British Cemetery, and the Menin Gate ceremony. We finished up our day learning about Ypres and Passchendaele with a special ceremony preformed at the Menin Gate. Our group was given the opportunity to sign a wreath and have three special people lay it on our behalf. The ceremony contained loud drumming, trumpet calls and a small parade of those wishing to drop off their wreath and pay our respects. Mary Pierre, Will, and Renée did the honours of laying the wreath in front of hundreds of on-lookers! I’m so grateful to have been able to witness such a beautiful ceremony firsthand.

Although the day was incredibly long and taxing, we all learned so much about Ypres and Passchendaele. Each presentation was better than the next and packed full of knowledge! Overall the day was amazing and I can’t wait to learn more tomorrow!

-Emma Berg (University of the Fraser Valley)